Baja, Isla Entrada to the Baja Mainland, April 16th 2001.


North of us was one more island in the “Enchanted Islands” chain. As we approached it that morning I saw a vertical stripe of light color near the shore. As we got closer this became more and more distinct until it resolved into a little lighthouse at the top of the gravel beach. I don’t think it is still operating and we couldn’t figure out why it was tucked into the side of the island instead of being higher up where it could be seen farther. The door was missing so I went in and climbed up the rusty spiral staircase to the top and looked out the windows. I asked my buddies not to climb up the stairs with me because I wasn’t sure they would take two people at once. They both thought that was a good idea. In fact they were not sure the stairs could take one person at a time without collapsing, so they had no interest in climbing them even when I was done. I took several pictures from up there and then we all got back in our kayaks and proceeded around the island.

The cruising guide that we first saw these islands in specifically mentioned two beaches on the west shore of this island that are often used by kayakers. We paddled up to these and looked around. The larger of the two beaches had gulls nesting on it EVERYWHERE so we looked at the smaller beach. For some reason this beach had no birds nesting on it. We had plenty of time so we continued on around the island looking for another beach but finding none. So we returned to the small beach and sat around discussing our options.

The beach had no birds, but it was still swarming with flies. Konstantin was not happy and moved from rock to cliff to rock, looking for a place out of the sun and away from the flies. I tried an experiment. We were all covered in crusted salt from sea water splashing up on our gear and drying there. The night before I had not been bothered by flies and I wondered if this was because I had gone diving and washed all the extra salt off. So to test the hypothesis that the flies were swarming over us to lick the concentrated salt, I went for a swim and rinsed off all my gear. This didn’t help. Konstantin was still unhappy with the heat, the sun, and the flies, so he begged us to come with him and paddle six more kilometers this day and go to the mainland where the birds do not nest and there should be fewer flies. We all agreed and left the islands behind.

We quickly made it across to the main Baja peninsula and settled on a gravel beach behind a point for our camp. It was still early and sunny so I tried rolling my equipment and water laden boat and found that I could roll it like this. Sid joined me and rolled his boat as well. We still had time to set up camp, prepare dinner, and relax until sunset.


All text and images Copyright © 2001 by Mike Higgins / contact